4 Years Later Including 2 in the Caribbean and 2 in the Pacific

 

 

 

Hello world - I can't believe it's almost 4 years since we were in Bequia. We spent a hurricane season in Grenada, sailed to Bonaire then up to Cuba and then down the Island chain back to Grenada. Then from Martinique we headed to Colombia and on through the Panama Canal. Galapagos Islands, Pitcairn (nearly) the Gambier Islands, Austral Islands. 

Then up to Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora, Niue, Tonga and then to Bundaberg Australia. Six months in Oz then across the Ditch to New Zealand, just before lockdown. We've been here in NZ over a year now. A great place with friendly and generous people.We got our jabs!

I'll try to update before the next 4 years expire...or before I do!

Evening View from our Anchorage at Bequia

Caribbean 2017

Finally got here after 23 days - plenty of wind but a fishing net round the rudder for 800 miles. Yes, a windier trip than we expected - F6-7 gusting 8 for more than 10 days. No serious breakages other than a blown fisherman (topsail). After Barbados we moved on to Bequia, with Canouan, Tobago Cays, Union Island and Grenada to come.

Here's our track, and there are some pictures at http://blue-hound.com/2017-Caribbean.html

Canaries Cruise, March 2016

A great month of cruising, although we didn't get to Hierro. A couple of bumpy crossings, and a dozen nights at anchor. I might head east next, to Fuertaventura and back to Lanzarote - and Graciosa for some tranquillity.

Update

After a couple of years ashore refitting in Malta, we finally got going in July 2015.

Our track was roughly as follows. Apologies for lack of real narrative!

Anchor off Gozo 2 nights, Marettimo (Egadi Islands) 1 night.

Next was Arbatax in Sardinia (2 nights in the marina – an ok place), followed by a night at anchor north of Cape Comino.

The wind proved to be a problem going on, so we spent a few nights at anchor in Porto Brindici. This was a great spot, very picturesque.

The next leg was up through the Madalena Islands followed by several nights at anchor, gale bound but secure, just south of Cala de Volpe. This Cala was a huge meeting spot for major superyachts, not really ‘my cup of tea’.

Then one more night at anchor before the longish crossing to Menorca. Porto Mahon proved to be a very laid back and pleasant surprise. They offered very good deals for over-wintering, but the 2 mile open fetch to the east did not appeal. A go-to-again place.

Having lost a week with heavy winds along the way, the next leg was to Ibiza, anchoring for a night. Onward to mainland Spain next, and Cartagena. We enjoyed a couple of nights in the marina (great town) and then headed down the coast, anchoring at Aguilas, and then another long leg to La Linea (Gibraltar) for fuel and a night at anchor. On then through the Straits and anchorage outside Barbate.

Next was the leg up to Chipiona where I have wintered before. Not very busy, and we hauled out for a few weeks and return to UK. To keep close to the 6 week window had meant a lot of motoring (1200 litres, 1300 miles) with over 30 nights at anchor.  I spent some time at anchor on the Guadalquivir river just north of Bonanza/Sanlucar de Barrameda, and included a leg to Magazon and back.

In early November we moved to Vila Real de Santo Antonio in Portugal and spent 3 weeks in the very reasonably priced marina – another place I would definitely return to. We stocked up for the trip to come and after a couple of nights anchored in the Olhao Channel (secure and peaceful) near Faro we set off on 6th December for the 525 mile leg to the Canary Islands.

The wind was not up to expectations again, being very light and variable and not living up to the forecast at all - we had a slow passage, arriving in Graciosa on 11th December. Graciosa is unspoilt and delightful – but you have to make your own entertainment. Despite it being mid December, it’s very warm and although we got wet on the bumpy dinghy trip ashore, we were quite comfortable. It just reminded me of why I wanted to be back in the Canaries for Christmas.




As I write this we are sitting out a near gale between Graciosa and Lanzaraote.

Reports of My Death are Greatly Exaggerated

Just quoting Mark Twain!

There is still a problem with my email at blue-hound.com - someone has been spoofing me (are they mad?) and emails to me are being bounced. The hosting company does not know why, still under investigation.

If you've had an email bounce, then please write again to my sailor account at gmail. If you are a friend you will know which one.

I'm just coming to the end of a long refit in the Med and looking forward to getting back out to the Atlantic this year!

How quickly time flies and tides flow...

...yes, over 500 regular tides since I last picked up the pen for this blog. Hard to believe - though obviously we didn't see the tides in the Med! Another winter in Sicily has passed and a windy one it was! We finally got away during the first week in June and spent 2 days wind-bound, anchored off the Palazzo inside Cabo Passero. The Palazzo figured in one of the Montalbano episodes.

It's a good anchorage (have used it previously) though we hooked a rock which kept us solidly held as the gusts blew through. Use a tripping line if close inshore - there be rubble off the factory pier!

Then, a pleasant sail to Malta and an anchorage in St Paul's Bay. We're ashore now for a refit over the next few months.

Decisions - if only there was one to make

I've been in Sardinia almost 2 months now, and I'm chafing at the bit. Wind today E 4/5 and then swinging NW 6/7. I could be down in Gib in 4 days, but commitments and work mean I have to hang around. Med is done for me, but looks like it will be next year before I'm back in the Atlantic. Still, tonight's sunset was a tonic!

(c) James Marinero

There's a time to run...

You've got to know when to stick and know when to twist (was it Kenny Rogers?). This was time to twist

Sardinian Sailing

I was just getting used to the vagaries of the wind here, anchored near Cagliari, when Gaia came in. What a beauty! 100' of sailing superyacht spent 3 days anchored alongside: They obviously knew I was here!

Sardinia

Finally arrived in Porto Giunco last week after much motor sailing from Sicily and really uncomfortable cross seas. We've had a windy few days here at anchor and little sailing, but hopefully today will see us in Calaforte, on San Pietro (SW corner). The local Ichnuso beer is good, and was very welcome after a tough day yesterday getting the mainsail off to repair the stakpak. Fuel? €1.98 a litre - that is painful!

Strange Phenomena - the Morrabio in Sicily

By yesterday morning it had been blowing 7-8 from the SE for almost 24 hours. It was wearing, and as I stepped onto the pontoon I noticed that the water was dirty and very turbulent - in fact there was a strong current swirling through the pontoons. As I looked S towards the control tower - see pic - I could see the water level dropping as I watched. In minutes it dropped a foot, and then started coming up again. This continued for most of the morning. I estimate that the amplitude was about 6" (12" trought to peak) with a period of 8-10 minutes. I believe the phenonmenon is called the Morrabio (spelling?), and occurs in certain pressure conditions between Pozzallo and Sciacca.

Afloat Again

It's been a long winter - grim in England and not brilliant in Sicily, but at least I'm back aboard now and the sun is warm. Plans haven't gelled yet for this summer, but I'm getting there.

Problems at sea are solved in many ways, but here's one that used a digger:

Where Costa Concordia Passed Us

Here's a picture of use anchored between Stromboli and the small island you see - Stromboliccio. That night, a cruise ship, which we believe was the Costa Concordia, passed between us and the island. It is steep-to around the island, with over 40 metres of water right up almost to the rocks.

The picture is taken from the beach at San Bartolomeo.

Big Waves

Caught this on the BBC this morning. Blue Hound was there a few years ago. I think it's Nazare...
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-15670415

Stromboli

After anchoring overnight off San Pietro in Panarea (anchor hooked on rock, no tripline, but got it out in the end), we anchored overnight off San Bartolomeo on NE corner of Stromboli, in 14 metres, bottom visible, sand, good holding. Lucky with wind - none, and little rolling except from cruise liners passing inside Stomboliccio.

Left at 08:00 just ahead of an electrical storm. Motor sailed down to Taormina Roads anchorage, and then on to Syracusa the next day.

Maltese Falcon

Followers will know that this is a yacht I love.

This was taken during the Perini-Navi Cup racing this year. Full story at
http://www.charterworld.com/news/2011-perini-navi-cup-sailing-yacht-maltese-falcon-wins-final-race-cancelled

Pic courtesy of charterworld.com

Etna from Taormina

Anchored in Taormina Roads, caught this pic of Etna in the evening sun:

Anchored at Taormina Roads - Mt Etna

Marina de Ragusa

A great little town, and Ragusa itself is worth seeing (UNESCO world heritage site). If you are coming into the marina though, then check this video first, and watch the weather. Read the notes below the video too.


Marina de Ragusa - enter with caution in strong winds. This video was taken after a couple of days of 20-25kts from the east, with stronger winds out in the Ionian. You could time it well and be lucky, but there's only 5.5 metres or so depth in the entrance and some rollers were big. Earlier in the year we passed by in an easterly F8 and anchored round Punta Scalambri off a good sandy beach in 5 m, out of wind and swell.

Aeolian Islands

We're tucked up in a bay, hiding from bad weather, on the island of Vulcano in the Aelolian group (Stromboli, Lipari etc.), under one of the two active volcanoes in the island group. Smells like rotten eggs a lot of the time. From Acitrezza we stopped at Taormina. Then it was an interesting, windy trip up the Straits of Messina, past the whirlpools of Scylla and Charibdis, which we didn't see. Almost turned back, but persisted through the wind and then the Tyrrenhian Sea was like a millpond - until yesterday. Salina next, then Lipari, Panarea and Stromboli.

In Porto Ponente, Vulcano