Bitter-sweet is how I feel. The Tunisian people were lovely when we visited, but I'm sad to see the pain they've suffered. I'm happy too that hopefully things will improve for the people. I guess as tourists though we were sheltered.
The Boulevard de France in Tunis was very atmospheric, and it was sobering to see the film of rioting there.
We missed out on Bizerte last year, but look forward to an opportunity to visit when the harbour is open.
Tuesday, 1 February 2011
Wednesday, 3 November 2010
A Month on, and what a Month it's been - Lisbon to Malta!
After a haulout and re-launch in Amora near Lisbon, we were weather-bound for 4 days whilst most Portuguese harbours were closed. We got to Cascais in a massive swell which was breaking over the breakwater! 2 days there, still waiting for seas to subside and off we went down to Ceuta (a Spanish enclave in North Africa, across the Straits from Gibraltar). This harbour is close-by Jebel Musa, one of the ancient 'Pillars of Hercules'.
On the approach, we saw a couple of Orcas (killer whales).
Then, on to Marina Smir in Morocco for a couple of days, 10 miles down the coast:
The nearest town, M'Diq was 10 mins away and real Morocco!
The next leg was the long one, past Algeria (still not a place to visit, with political instability), staying 40 miles off the coast, 6 days at sea to Tabarka in Tunisia. After all, this is the coast of the Barbary pirates!
Still, en route we were visited by a pod of grampus (Risso's) dolphins - so relaxed and graceful in our bow wave - quite different to the frenetic behaviour of common dolphins.
Tabarka was the best stop of the trip. The 'luxurious marina' in Tabarka is well past its best, but the people were very welcoming and helpful. We even managed to find free wifi in a hotel. Food quality was ok and plenty of fish!
They trade on the reputation of the Barbary priates here.
After Tabarka, we went on to Sidi Bou Said near Tunis, for a visit to Carthage. The marina was not special, and the town was a half hour walk away (or 300 step climb)! Carthage, though, was worth a visit.
Then, on to Malta, a couple of days away.
On the approach, we saw a couple of Orcas (killer whales).
Then, on to Marina Smir in Morocco for a couple of days, 10 miles down the coast:
The nearest town, M'Diq was 10 mins away and real Morocco!
The next leg was the long one, past Algeria (still not a place to visit, with political instability), staying 40 miles off the coast, 6 days at sea to Tabarka in Tunisia. After all, this is the coast of the Barbary pirates!
Still, en route we were visited by a pod of grampus (Risso's) dolphins - so relaxed and graceful in our bow wave - quite different to the frenetic behaviour of common dolphins.
Tabarka was the best stop of the trip. The 'luxurious marina' in Tabarka is well past its best, but the people were very welcoming and helpful. We even managed to find free wifi in a hotel. Food quality was ok and plenty of fish!
They trade on the reputation of the Barbary priates here.
After Tabarka, we went on to Sidi Bou Said near Tunis, for a visit to Carthage. The marina was not special, and the town was a half hour walk away (or 300 step climb)! Carthage, though, was worth a visit.
Then, on to Malta, a couple of days away.
Saturday, 25 September 2010
Finally...
At last I got around to updating the website with 2008 & 2009 cruise details, some pics and a couple of videos, including storm petrel and loggerhead turtle!
http://www.blue-hound.com/Cruises.html
http://www.blue-hound.com/Cruises.html
Saturday, 28 August 2010
Seixal near Lisbon
At anchor now in the River Judeu about 5 mls from Lisbon, off Seixal town. Steaming hot – 35 deg one day, but very few mozzies I’m glad to say. I’ve been doing maintenance, some deck welding and painting, for 10 days now.
There's a good boatyard at Amora just across the river from Seixal - run by the Vanancios family, nice people.
The buoyed channel to the boatyard has 2m+ at CD. There's a lot more water in this estuary than my e-charts indicate - I bought the latest Portuguese paper chart - it's got more water ;-)
So, we will haul out and do Blue Hound's underwater bits....it's 18 months since I looked at her bottom in St Sampson (Guernsey).
Plenty of wildlife - herons, egrets, terns and some small petrel-like birds that I haven't been able to identify. Fish galore, though being an estuary the water isn't that clear.
I like Alcantara dock in Lisbon, but mooring charges have gone up annually by 7% for the last 5 years, and the facilities are no better (and it seems to be noisier). There is now a Pingo Doce supermarket within 10 mins walk and they've got Twinings English Breakfast tea! The nearby laundry has disappeared and there is no wifi - important for those of us who try to work from the boat. I got a Vodaphone Portugal dongle for 40 Euros with 10 hrs incluido. Valid for 6 months and rechargeable at 5 euros for 5 hours. So, I'm writing this at anchor!
Seixal town is typical old Portugal - I had a churrasqunio barbeque lunch in the street yesterday - a lovely little town and plenty of live music; even a small popular beach. Ferry to Lisbon 15 mins.
The estuary is very reminiscent of Brazil - here's a couple of shots, one of the full moon rising over the town at dusk this week, and an evening view across to the Tagus Bridge and Cristo Rei monument:
There's a good boatyard at Amora just across the river from Seixal - run by the Vanancios family, nice people.
The buoyed channel to the boatyard has 2m+ at CD. There's a lot more water in this estuary than my e-charts indicate - I bought the latest Portuguese paper chart - it's got more water ;-)
So, we will haul out and do Blue Hound's underwater bits....it's 18 months since I looked at her bottom in St Sampson (Guernsey).
Plenty of wildlife - herons, egrets, terns and some small petrel-like birds that I haven't been able to identify. Fish galore, though being an estuary the water isn't that clear.
I like Alcantara dock in Lisbon, but mooring charges have gone up annually by 7% for the last 5 years, and the facilities are no better (and it seems to be noisier). There is now a Pingo Doce supermarket within 10 mins walk and they've got Twinings English Breakfast tea! The nearby laundry has disappeared and there is no wifi - important for those of us who try to work from the boat. I got a Vodaphone Portugal dongle for 40 Euros with 10 hrs incluido. Valid for 6 months and rechargeable at 5 euros for 5 hours. So, I'm writing this at anchor!
Seixal town is typical old Portugal - I had a churrasqunio barbeque lunch in the street yesterday - a lovely little town and plenty of live music; even a small popular beach. Ferry to Lisbon 15 mins.
The estuary is very reminiscent of Brazil - here's a couple of shots, one of the full moon rising over the town at dusk this week, and an evening view across to the Tagus Bridge and Cristo Rei monument:
Friday, 13 August 2010
Lisbon at last!
We finally got here after 9 days sailing close hauled (well, as close as a schooner will sail). 748 miles great circle, we logged 1026 miles over the ground. Only a couple of tough days with big awkward seas and F6, and less than 24 hours under engine. Still you have to count your blessings, the French guys on the aluminium boat next to us hit a container at 8 knots and lost both their ballasted dagger boards - they were unstable in 10 m seas and 40 knots of wind accompanied by a warship for 2 days.....Here's a chart of our track from Sao Miguel to Lisbon...
Monday, 26 July 2010
Sao Miguel
After Terceira (Angra), Sao Jorge (Calheta, Velas), Faial (Horta), Pico (Lajes do Pico), we're now in Sao Miguel (Ponta Delgada). We'll be here for a few days and then off to Lisbon. Discovered new marina in Lajes do Pico - super little place. I'll be putting pictures and more background on www.blue-hound.com soon! In the meantime here's a shot of Pico from Horta.
Thursday, 15 July 2010
Azores again!
Well, we got to the Azores via L'Aberwrach and Portosin - light winds, 52% motoring! Rosy's first time here, but Blue Hound's fourth visit. This time we are going to see a lot more!
Terceira was great, now we're about to depart Sao Jorge for Flores (wind dependent). Good food and wine, great weather. The fajas in Sao Jorge were amazing, but here's a picture of the Tourada in Terceira:
Terceira was great, now we're about to depart Sao Jorge for Flores (wind dependent). Good food and wine, great weather. The fajas in Sao Jorge were amazing, but here's a picture of the Tourada in Terceira:
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